Wrinkles, like wisdom, come with age; but not everyone likes them. Last week we told you what wrinkles are and how they're formed. This week in Health and Beauty BreakDowns, our viewers want to know what wrinkle creams really work and why.

Dr. Ronald Downs from the Centre P.C. says many wrinkle creams and lotions sold in department stores, in drugstores, and on the internet promise to reduce wrinkles and prevent or reverse damage caused by the sun. They may slightly improve the appearance of your skin, but if you’re looking for a face-lift in a bottle, you probably won't find it in over-the-counter, non-prescription, wrinkle creams.

Dr. Downs says to consider these points when judging the merits of
using a wrinkle cream:

• The FDA classifies creams and lotions as cosmetics, which are defined as having no medical value. This means the FDA does not allow medically-active products to be sold in department stores. Over-the-counter wrinkle creams contain lower concentrations of active ingredients than do prescription creams. So results, if any, are limited and usually short-lived.


• Research suggests that certain ingredients may improve wrinkles, which we will talk about. However, over-the-counter products are not evaluated by the FDA for effectiveness.


• In addition, cosmetics companies are not rash enough to allow a product which actually changes the fundamental structure of the skin to be sold by someone not trained in skin care. It would be a liability nightmare.


• Cost has no relationship to effectiveness. Just because a wrinkle cream is more costly, may not mean that it's more effective than a less-costly product.

The effectiveness of a wrinkle cream depends in part on the active ingredients. Here are some common ingredients that may result in slight to modest improvements in wrinkles:

• Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): These natural fruit acids lift away the top layer of dead skin cells, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, particularly around the eyes. Among the most widely known are glycolic and lactic acid. New evidence shows that in higher concentrations, AHAs may help stimulate collagen production.


• Retinoids (Vitamin A): The only FDA-approved topical treatment for wrinkles is tretinoin, known as Retin A. This prescription cream can reduce fine lines and large wrinkles, and repair sun damage. It has the longest track record of success in treating aging skin and fine lines.


• Coenzyme Q10: This naturally-occurring antioxidant is a nutrient that helps regulate energy production in cells. Some studies have shown reduction in fine wrinkles around the eyes with no side effects. Other studies show that application before sun exposure protects against sun damage.


• Copper Peptides: Copper is a trace element found in every cell. In products applied to the skin, it’s combined with small protein fragments called peptides. Copper peptides enhance wound healing. They also stimulate production of collagen and may enhance the action of antioxidants.

To learn more about what wrinkles are and how they form, click here. In our next Health and Beauty BreakDowns in March, Dr. Downs will talk about even more aggressive skin care treatments to help in the fight against wrinkles.